Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2004 8:18 pm Posts: 270 Location: Bishop, Ca
I can't take credit for the idea, but I can take credit for my superb metal working skills.
I saw this one on here a while ago:
http://www.splitboard.com/talk/viewtopi ... sc&start=0 ...and decided to give it a try.
I found an old pair of aluminum baseplate bindings and attacked them with the jigsaw. Then added a pair of Voile plate bindings, and with the help of the drill I added some random parts from a few other bindings and tweaked it to work for my own needs. The dog almost lost his leg, but here is the result:
with boot:
One of the main advantages to this (over regular strap bindings) is the width. No more wide binding hanging over the side of each ski forcing an unnatural stride. No more wide bindings scraping against the walls of the skin track. No more trying to cram those wide bindings into the skintrack:
The first few days I was having trouble getting the heel bail in place. The binding heelcup makes it hard to see, and the heel bail was constantly falling down too low when I would put my foot back there.
So I moved the placement of the straps and added some longer screws. One goes just above the bail, one goes just below the bail. Now it doesn't move out of place:
thats an awsome idea! let us know how it rides in detial. did you ride hard boots or soft boots before? if this works well, i will really consider switching to PMB next season.
_________________ JACK
"take it easy, if its easy take it twice..."
Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 8:56 pm Posts: 424 Location: Meyers, CA
Clever...seeing the toe throw on those boots reminds me of an intelligent DIY backcountry version of the jibber toe caps all the kids are rockin these days.
If you went through the trouble to construct these binders I'm guessing you're happy with the boots.
I don't understand but it's probably because I'm not familiar with those boots. Why do you need a heel-cup and strap at all? Doesn't the boot fit into the heel-bail the same way as it fits into the toe-bail?
He's using plastic mountaineering boots, not alpine touring boots. Without the highback and straps most people find PMBs way too soft to control the board. I wish BCD would update us on how this setup rides. To me it seems like the perfect solution for snowboard mountaineering if you're not into hardboots.
Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2004 8:18 pm Posts: 270 Location: Bishop, Ca
They seem to ride just like a softboot/strap binding combo. I've been out on this set up for a few days, and so far I like it. I haven't noticed the lack of a toe strap, but I haven't had a chance to ride on firm/spring conditions yet.
I should be able to write a real review of the board/bindings/boots in April or May.
Right now I don't see any drawbacks to these bindings over a regular strap binding, but we'll see.
The weight savings is pretty substantial, but that's in part due to the fact that those aluminum baseplates are pretty light to begin with.
wherestodd wrote:
Hey bcd what kind of boot set up is that? Did you drill a hole in the nose of that Mtn Gun? If yes, why?
bcd, If the boot sits all the way back in the heelcup and you have the in-step strap, why to you need the rear bail?
It's nice to have the rear bail for touring. It keeps the boot in place so I can undo the heelstrap. Skinning is much more comfortable without the heelstrap clamped across my foot.
I also like having the extra security of that thing keeping my foot in place. Binding straps break without much notice, and that's just the way it goes. I've always been afraid of having a strap break on the first turn at the top of some nasty chute. With the heel bail at least I'll get a bit of control so I can get to safe place to change it out.
Let me guess. Now everyone is wondering “So, if you have the heel bail, why do you need a heelstrap?â€Â
Joined: Sun Dec 18, 2005 6:55 pm Posts: 29 Location: Maine
Quote:
Are you finding that the laces stay tight on the plastic shell?
When I was riding Koflachs, I got some great lacing techniques from a bootfitter friend:
You can isolate different areas by separating them with a double-twist of the laces as they cross. This way, you can just snug the lower part, lock it in with the twist, then crank the upper part tight. The looseness won't travel up as the boot flexes.
To really crank the upper part tight: Cross the laces around each other and bring them back to the same side for the next set of hooks, hook one side, pull the other side tight and hook it. Continue to the top. This pulls the shell together almost as well as a strap.
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