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We are getting slurpee snow here in coastal Alaska right now. Wet, gloppy, squishy, new spring mashed potatoes. It's a lot of fun to cruise around in mostly, but until it corns up it can be insanely grabby. Like point-straight-downhill-and-lean-back grabby. It's the consistency of wet toilet paper.

Anybody have a sure-fire way to break the suction and end the slush rooster tail spraying off my back end? Warm wax is useless and Zardos does absolutely nothing at all.

TIA

I think yer hosed, eh.

oneball jay summer slush graphite high flouro.
I've been using it for years in dirty sloppy cascade concrete and nothing else even comes close.

Don't forget to structure your base with a cross-hatch in the spring, helps a smidge in breaking the surface tension.

+1 for structure. I have one board with some kind of golfball structure they put into it in the factory, that thing is fast in warm snow.

My brother calls it "Blue Goo!" He lives in Eagle River and works for CPG heli in Girdwood........I totally hate him! I live in the rain soaked east dealing with what i call "wet pow" is life in these parts! One Ball J is the fastest stuff I've ever used....and it's cheap! $90 for a small block of HF10 from swix or $20 for a big chunk of OBJ!
Deep cross stucture and wax together is the ticket through the slop.
Last week we were graced with some 20ins. of AK style Blue Goo @ Killington Vt and when it's 45 at the bottom of the accsess road and raining there is something between rain and real snow thats hard to deal with. Go fast and lean back is all you can do!

The ski hill where I used to ride as a kid had a square bail of hay soaked in diesel fuel at the top of the lift. Probably not going to work for you, but just a thought.

Who makes that board? I'd like that done to one of my boards.

I had my base waxed + structured last Saturday. It did ok, was able to get speed and made it across a long flat. However, it was hella grabby and all my weight was back. Going to a heelside turn my inside edge grabbed and I ...

Stuka,

It's a Silbaerg Pro carbon, I think they call it StrucTurn base and it's a licenced technology available on other boards as well.

http://www.silbaerg.com/About.23.0.html?&L=1

arbor and forum have made boards w/ that in the past also.

Some good tips, thanks.

So, how do you cross hatch some structure? Get a skinny cx ski structure tool and just roll it all over the bottom of the board? I don't exactly have a full service ski shop down the road I can run to for a custom base grind, living on an island in the Gulf of Alaska and all. I'm also having a real hard time locating any OBJ summer slush wax. There are other high flouro/graphite/silicone/KYjelly waxes out there, but I already have decent warm temp wax. I want a sure thing....

I read on the internets you can use 80 - 60 grit sandpaper or a steel brush for warm snow. Sand your base, cleanup with a scotchbrite, wax, scrape, nylon brush to clean the wax from the grooves. You'll probably need a base grind next season.

I usually just add structure after scraping with the stiff nylon brush.

[edit] I looked at the Mt Hood forecast and heading to the garage with the 80 grit.

I have a Swix stiff nylon brush too (the white-bristle one) for post-scraping structure setting that I use. I usually follow with a softer blue-bristle Swix brush to buff the base. Am I supposed to skip the blue brush? It seems like actual structure in the p-tex would be the answer. Does anyone actually use a structuring tool like the cx ski roller tools to press a pattern into the base? I like the idea of pressing the pattern in since it is not permanent and a good heating with an iron during waxing will relax the impressions and allow the p-tex to rebound. Cutting structure in seems a little extreme for a temporary snow condition.

Even the tognar site only mentions a few stones for board structuring.

http://www.tognar.com/base-flattening-s ... snowboard/